The Patchwork Dress

On the length you’ll need to cut the necessary inches off to make it 4″ shorter than the model’s length from chest to knee (Cut the inches off each row after sewing all the squares together, cutting an equal amount from the top and bottom edges of the below). 


Now measure the width (the long edge) of your patchwork piece.  You’ll need this measurement for the band pieces.


Step Two: Cutting and Attaching the Top and Bottom Band

Top Band (cut 1): 3.5″ x width of patchwork piece
Bottom Band (cut 1): 8.5″ x width of patchwork piece

Take the bottom band and iron in half lengthwise.

With raw edges aligned, pin to the bottom of the patchwork piece as show in below picture.  Sew with a 1/2″ seam.  Serge or zigzag.  Press seam and topstitch with 1/8″ seam.

Now take the top band and iron in half lengthwise.  With raw edges aligned, pin to top edge of patchwork piece.  Sew with a 1/2″ seam.  Serge or zigzag.  Press seam and topstitch with 1/8″ seam.

Step Three: Elastic Casing and Elastic Insertion

Now sew a seam 1/2″ from the top edge of the top band as shown below.  We’re making an elastic casing that will ruffle along the top.  Cut a piece of 1/2″ elastic in the same length as your model’s chest circumference.  Using a safety pin insert into the bottom casing as shown below.  Tack in place with a few stitches at each end.

 

Now your dress looks like the below.  Bring side seams together (with right sides of fabric touching) and pin in place.  Sew with a 1/2″ seam, serge and press.

Initially, I thought this would be my dress but it’s a little shapeless, right?  So we’re going to do some shirring at the waist to create a bubble top.  If you need help with shirring check out my shirring tutorial.

Step Four: Shirring the Waist

Starting just above the middle of the patchwork section seam, shirr about 14 rows really close together.  I did mine about 1/8″ apart.  You’ll want to backstitch at the beginning and end of each row of shirring.  I didn’t start a new row for each seam.  Each time I completed a row, I just lifted my presser foot, shifted the dress 1/8″ inch and started shirring the next row.  I only re-started shirring with backstitching when the bobbin ran out of elastic thread.

When you’re done shirring, shrink it up with a hot iron and a lot of steam.  So much cuter with the shirred waist, don’t you think?

Step Five: Adding the Flower Detail

For the flower, I sew on a little loop of embroidery thread as shown in below picture.  Then I take a cheapie fake flower, pop out the center and sew on a button center.  Glue on an alligator clip using a felt circle to hold it in place (hot glue works best).  Then you can attach the flower to the loop. This way, it’s easily removed for washing AND it’s a hair clip, too.

Step 6: Cutting, Making and Attaching the straps

Here’s a quick tute for how I like to make my straps (because I really dislike tube-turning!).  These pics are from another dress in which I made the same type of straps.

First, cut 4 pieces of fabric 16″x2″. (I make the cotton ones a bit longer since they don’t stretch like knits do).  These example pics are from another dress I made just to show you in detail how to make your own.

Fold each short each of the strap piece over 1/4″ and iron.  Then fold strip in half lengthwise and iron.  Open and fold each side toward the middle and iron again (see pics for a better explanation).  Then fold in half and iron again.  Sew with a 1/8″ seam.  Repeat until all four straps are complete.

     

     

Find the center front of your dress and mark with a pin.  Pin each front strap 3″ out from center.  Sew in place, going over each strap 2-3 times.  Find the center back of your dress and mark with a pin.  Pin each back strap 2″ out from center and sew on.

That’s it!  You’re all done.  I hope you have better luck getting your little model to model it than I did!

Linking up on:
TaterTots & Jello